Saturday, June 5, 2010

Chowdah Head


Recently, Jax and I cranked up the AC and pretended it was a cold, wet night outside so we could enjoying steaming bowls of fish chowder with the right mindset. Oh how I love a good chowder. I started this one by peeling and parboiling three large potatoes and set them in the fridge to cool. I also put on a pot of boiling water with a bay leaf and some peppercorns in it. This would be my "herbal stock" that I would later add at intervals to the actual chowder.

About an hour before we were ready to eat, I fried some lovely center cut bacon in my French enamel cast iron pot and set it aside for later. In that same pot, I sauteed leeks and celery. We had about a cup of leftover cheap champagne and I used this for the sautee´ as well. When the aromatics were soft, I put in liberal helpings of garlic, thyme and Italian parsley.

When this was cooked down to a pulpy mess, I added a bottle of clam juice and let it reduce halfway. That's when I began adding ladles of of my bay/pepper water. Then, a half hour before serving, I dumped in the potatoes and more fresh parsley. Stirring constantly, I kept this mixture on medium-high heat for about fifteen minutes (this is when you really need that bay/pepper water, as the potatoes soak up a lot of the liquid).

Finally, it was time to put the pound of tilapia filets into the cast iron. After cooking a final ten minutes, the only thing then left to do was stir in a cup of heavy whipping cream, melt a quarter pound of Double Devon butter, and top with fresh cracked pepper and crumbled bacon.


Light it aint. But it sho is delicious.

As an addendum, I'll leave you with this lovely poem about chowder by Pablo Neruda. It never fails to leave me feeling happy, horny, and hungry:

Ode To Conger Chowder

In the storm-tossed
Chilean
sea
lives the rosy conger,
giant eel
of snowy flesh.
And in Chilean
stewpots,
along the coast,
was born the chowder,
thick and succulent,
a boon to man.
You bring the conger, skinned,
to the kitchen
(its mottled skin slips off
like a glove,
leaving the
grape of the sea
exposed to the world),
naked,
the tender eel
glistens,
prepared
to serve our appetites.
Now
you take
garlic,
first, caress
that precious
ivory,
smell
its irate fragrance,
then
blend the minced garlic
with onion
and tomato
until the onion
is the color of gold.
Meanwhile steam
our regal
ocean prawns,
and when
they are
tender,
when the savor is
set in a sauce
combining the liquors
of the ocean
and the clear water
released from the light of the onion,
then
you add the eel
that it may be immersed in glory,
that it may steep in the oils
of the pot,
shrink and be saturated.
Now all that remains is to
drop a dollop of cream
into the concoction,
a heavy rose,
then slowly
deliver
the treasure to the flame,
until in the chowder
are warmed
the essences of Chile,
and to the table
come, newly wed,
the savors
of land and sea,
that in this dish
you may know heaven.

-Pablo Neruda

Saturday, May 15, 2010

The Thrill Of The Grill


I've gotta give some love to another 'Dena original, Smitty's Grill. Not BEC in the strictest sense, but still a great place for reasonably-priced and utterly excellent comfort food. Last night we chowed on some ree-dunk-u-lous chicken pot pie and a delicious cornmeal-crusted rainbow trout. Washed down with a Sapphire martini, we had everything an end-of-the-work-week meal should be about. The hostess even brought out a free serving of cornbread.

Gettin' Some Tail


I was at Ralph's seafood counter buying us some shrimp for dinner. And lo and behold, I spied the price on lobster tails: 9.99 each! You know I grabbed one for the Jackal 'cause she loves em so. Then I broiled that bitch in the toaster oven and served it to her on a TV table. What a fun appetizer that looks as great as it tastes. And here's an excellent video showing just how simple it is to get yourself a great piece of tail in under ten minutes:

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Who's Got Beef?

This is just a short note paying homage to the best fucking hamburger joint I've found. That would be Pie 'n Burger here in Pasadena. It's a diner, replete with a counter, real sodas made with syrup, and chocolate malts. And it's not one of those dreadful Silverlakesque diners filled with bearded hipsters and thin-hipped women either. This is real good food and good people -- especially the old folks who seem to always crowd the counter at lunchtime.

I do not know why the Pie 'n Burger burger is so good. I only know that I love it. It looks incredibly simple: a loose patty on a regular sort of thin bun covered on one side with thousand island or perhaps Russian dressing, some dill pickles, an onion and a tomato slice (I add bacon). It's fried on a flat grill, not flame-grilled. Like I said, simple. Simply fucking DELICIOUS!!!!!

Shell Game


I fucking hate being fat. And one of the things I hate most about trying to lose weight is avoiding carbs -- especially pasta!!!

But weekends were made for indulgences here at Casa de Carne, and this was our latest one: stuffed shells. Such a simple and delicious meal it was. I put a bunch of spinach, garlic, white onion, basil and Italian parsley in the food processor. This was added to a couple beaten eggs. Throw in a package of rockin' ricotta from Rosario down at Roma Deli and you've got a stuffing that can't be beat.

But wait, there's more . . .

Rosario has about the best prosciutto you'll lay eyes on outside Parma. So you just know I had to put some of that into the mix. Then, after the shells were stuffed, I laid them in a dish lined with spicy marinara. After sprinkling more marinara on top, I added slices of buffalo mozzarella. Then I baked that bitch on 350 for an hour. We ate it piping hot with bread soaked in olive oil while we watched TV. Coz that's how us fat people roll.

Poachers!!!


The day after the latke-fest, I was stuck with many delicious leftovers. What to do, what to do . . .

The task was a daunting one, but I dug into it with enthusiasm the very next morning. Jackie loves a good poached egg, and her favorite way to have it is over some bitter greens. So her delicious and utterly easy first meal of the day was poached eggs on a bed of arugula and cucumbers lightly sprinkled with red wine vinegar. Our leftover latkes and delicious black bread toast served as the sides.

"This is living," she said as I served her in bed.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Lotza Latkes


Our friend Eliot, when pressed by me to request a specific dish for our Saturday night get-together, chose Latkes and beet salad. Having never made latkes before, I consulted our old friend The Internet. I used this recipe as my basic template. Then I turned to Chowhound for some tips, such as throwing in a little baking powder for fluffiness. I confess, the serious tenor of the chowhounders intimidated me a bit. These people really know their latkes and don't fuck around. It also made me feel a bit guilty mixing in a dash of instant mashed potatoes as a fail-safe for my initial latke-making adventure. Another sin for some, I opted for the food processor over a box grater. In the end, I'm not sure if anyone could notice these cheats except perhaps one of those latke masters from the 'hound.


I started Jackie and Eliot with a coldcut nosh and crispy white wine, while I finished frying the last of the latkes. Then, we moved outside to the patio where I served the salad. This dish was actually planned a week before when I was making my borscht. I had roasted an extra beet and put it in the fridge with vinegar. Last night, I mixed that with some pine nuts, goat feta, fresh dill, and white onions, placed on a bed of arugula. To this, I added a couple eggs I had pickled. The salad was a light and tasty complement to the big meats that would follow.


I had asked Eliot to bring by some dark rye from one of those amazing Russian bakeries in West Hollywood . He did not disappoint, showing up with a loaf of the blackest most beautiful bread you will find. Holy shit, that combined with killer veal sausage and some raw onion was out-of-the-box good. Eliot also brought us some wonderful sour cream to accompany the applesauce we'd be covering our latkes with.


But no meal, for Jackie, is complete without dessert. Me? I'm not much a sweets fan; you'll probably never read about me whipping up a pastry or some such thing. But what I offered last night seemed to please: Ben&Jerry's vanilla ice cream topped with this awesome coconut jam called Kaya that I got from my new favorite Malaysain restaurant: Yazmin. Add a fresh strawberry, and you've got a cool and refreshing way to end a Saturday night repast.